Organized by COSMETIC VALLEY, the 12th edition of COSMETIC 360 took place at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris on October 14 and 15. The 2026 theme, “Regenerations,” explored how the industry can move beyond reducing impact to repair, restore and revitalize soils, resources, biodiversity and skin. Regenerative agriculture, biotechnology, circular models, material reuse and skin-repair research featured across the program.
With every exhibitor presenting an innovation, COSMETIC 360 offers a concentrated view of the ingredients, formats, technologies and development capabilities entering the beauty industry.
The exhibition also brought together very different stages of development, from new actives and formulation platforms to finished concepts, testing services and production-ready packaging systems. For brand teams, the distinction matters: each requires a different level of technical review, investment and time before it can enter a commercial brief.
From Turnkey Concepts to Flexible Formulation Platforms
Turnkey development is well established, but several exhibitors made their capabilities easier to assess by showing finished concepts, coordinated ranges and defined applications rather than isolated samples.
France Lab used mock brands to demonstrate how its formulations can work together across sun care, fragranced body care, cleansing, lip products, mists and treatment textures. Fareva took a category-led approach, using its Cryo Regeneration Stick, transparent SPF50+ stick and wider sun-care offer to demonstrate texture, format and market readiness. Biotic Phocea reinforced this application-focused model through exclusive turnkey formulas and an enzymatic scrub centered on efficacy and sensory experience.
WPE Solutions represents a different type of offer. Its patented high-pressure microemulsion platform supports light, alcohol-free and solvent-free formulations across skincare, haircare, body care, mists and fragrance.
For brand teams comparing development partners, these presentations made category experience, sensory direction and technical readiness easier to assess before a complete brief had been written. They could also expose gaps or unrealistic expectations earlier in the process.
Delivery Systems Target Portability, Dosing and Formula Protection
The delivery systems shown in Paris addressed different product needs, including fast application, portability, controlled dosing and formula preservation.
BEA Laboratoires’ LATTE uses a fine milky mist to deliver firming, moisturizing and deodorizing benefits across the body in one application. Fareva’s solid sticks provide controlled, portable application for post-UV care and high-protection sun care.
Desjardin Metal Packaging, meanwhile, offers vacuum packaging designed to preserve sensitive ingredients.
Together, these examples show how delivery systems can address specific product needs, from fast application and controlled dosing to portability and formula preservation.
PDRN Is Becoming a Crowded Claim
PDRN was difficult to miss across the exhibition.
Akott offers Cacica Boost PDRN, while CHANDO Himalaya includes Hirosetech PDRN among its internally developed ingredients. Across the floor, the claim also appeared in masks, essences and serums.
The repeated launches suggest that PDRN is moving from novelty into direct competition. The ingredient name alone will carry less weight as similar products enter the market. Source, concentration, formulation, supporting evidence and delivery method will become more important points of differentiation.
Sun Care Innovation Focused on Texture and Wearability
Sun-care concepts at COSMETIC 360 addressed some of the category’s persistent formulation challenges: transparency, oil control, texture and ease of application.
Fareva’s transparent, microplastic-free SPF50+ stick is designed for portable, controlled application. Tokuyama’s Airlica silica aerogel combines SPF-boosting potential with high oil absorption, soft-focus effects and a velvety finish. Seprify’s Silvaluma, a modified cellulose ingredient, is positioned to increase SPF performance while adding mattifying and sensory benefits.
For brands, the commercial point is straightforward: high protection must also feel light, apply easily and sit comfortably within a daily skincare routine. Texture and finish are becoming important differentiators in a category where product experience can influence regular use and reapplication.
Three Practical Routes to Regenerative Product Development
At COSMETIC 360, regeneration entered product development through three clear routes: recovering by-products, protecting biodiversity through sourcing and incorporating upcycled materials into finished formulas.
MARCO transforms French coffee grounds into cosmetic oils and butters for moisturizing, protective and solid formulations.
Primegreen links its Licuri emollient to a sourcing model in Brazil’s Caatinga that leaves part of the harvest for the endangered Lear’s macaw. Its LICURI: Nature’s Gift to Skin & Macaw project received the jury’s Regenerations distinction.
Laboratoire CNB carries the theme into finished products through a natural, upcycled sun-care range.
At COSMETIC 360, regeneration appeared less as a single methodology than as a range of emerging development models. The more substantive examples connected a traceable material or sourcing practice to a defined environmental benefit and a clear cosmetic function. As the language gains wider use, that distinction will become increasingly important for brands evaluating suppliers, claims and long-term product viability.
AI and New Technologies Move Deeper into Beauty R&D
A noticeable group of exhibitors focused on the information behind product development rather than the finished product itself. Neuroscience-based consumer testing, ingredient intelligence and microbiome analysis were presented as tools for screening options, testing assumptions and strengthening development briefs.
BYOME Lab provides a concrete example, connecting microbiome analysis with product-impact testing across skin, scalp, oral and intimate-care applications. Its services are designed to generate usable data for product evaluation, claims support and personalized recommendations.
Used well, these tools can shorten the research phase, reveal weak assumptions earlier and give product and claims teams better evidence before a concept moves forward.
BEAUTYNAVIGATOR SELECTS
Packaging, Materials and Product Delivery: Three Innovations to Know
Selected for their clear use case, practical differentiation and realistic path into a product-development brief.
Pumpart System | TUB Airless
Pumpart System’s TUB Airless addresses material use, formula protection, residual product, difficult textures and the premium application experience within one packaging system.
According to Pumpart, the patented three-component format can reduce the plastic footprint by up to 60% and achieve a product-dispensing rate above 95%. Its pump-free construction limits air backflow, while the tube retains its shape instead of being crushed or folded during use.
Pumpart also states that TUB Airless is compatible with existing filling lines and can dispense creams with viscosities of up to 250,000 cP, supporting its use with rich and technically demanding formulas.
Its relevance comes from combining material reduction, sensitive-formula protection, product evacuation and premium dispensing in one practical system.
Sericyne | Pure-Silk Patches and SeriPowder
Sericyne uses its patented French silk in two complementary cosmetic applications.
Its pure, non-woven silk eye patches act as both the support for an infused formula and a cosmetically functional material containing fibroin and sericin proteins. Brands can customize the patches through embossing and inclusions.
Production offcuts are cryomilled into SeriPowder, a talc-free powder developed to provide a silky finish, soft-focus effect and no visible white cast. One proprietary material therefore supports both a customizable finished treatment and a separate B2B ingredient.
Sericyne’s event materials list a minimum order quantity of 5,000 pairs for the eye patches. Its official product page also reports instrumental and clinical testing covering hydration, immediate tightening and wrinkle appearance, giving brands more than a material story to evaluate.
Deardot | Water-Activated Shampoo Sheets
Deardot’s water-activated shampoo sheet offers a compact alternative to conventional liquid shampoo.
The PVA-free, single-dose sheet activates with water and uses Celluble, a proprietary structural material developed to maintain the solid sheet format. Its controlled dosage, low weight and compact dimensions suit applications where storage, portability and packaging weight matter.
The immediate opportunity is in travel, hospitality and sampling, where those practical advantages can become part of the product proposition. Deardot also offers a broader range built around Jeju dangyuja, including PDRN masks, essences and serums.
The product launched in March 2026. Its official dossier reports completed formula safety review, internal quality and microbiology checks, and stability screening, while dermatological or scalp-compatibility testing and consumer-use testing were still planned at the time of submission.
BEAUTYNAVIGATOR TAKEAWAY
COSMETIC 360 brings early research, specialist technologies, developed applications and production-ready systems together in one setting, offering a valuable view of what is emerging across the industry.
Across the show floor, the concepts that appeared most commercially relevant combined clear performance, credible evidence, production feasibility and a defined role in the finished product.